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  4. Ibiza beyond the clubs: quiet calas and long lunches
Turquoise water and low cliffs at Cala Comte on Ibiza's west coast

Balearics

Ibiza beyond the clubs: quiet calas and long lunches

The clubs occupy about four square kilometres. The other 570 are farmland, pine and coves.

Quick answers

Can you visit Ibiza without encountering the nightlife?
Easily. Base yourself north of Santa Gertrudis and you will not hear a club all week.
Which areas are quietest?
Sant Joan de Labritja, Portinatx, Benirràs and the Santa Agnès valley in the north and centre.
When is the island calmest?
Late May, and the second half of September once the season winds down but the sea is still warm.
Is it expensive?
In July and August, yes. Shoulder season rates fall sharply, often by a third or more.

The island splits in two

Ibiza's reputation is built on a strip that runs from Playa d'en Bossa round to Sant Antoni. Draw a line north of Santa Gertrudis and the island becomes something else entirely: dirt tracks, fig trees, whitewashed churches and coves you reach on foot.

German and Swiss couples worked this out some years ago, which is why September in the north books out earlier than people expect.

Where to swim

Cala Comte on the west coast is the famous one and deserves it, particularly an hour before sunset. Benirràs, on the north coast, still has its Sunday drumming but is empty on a Tuesday morning.

For genuine quiet, the small calas off the Sant Joan road — Cala d'en Serra, Portinatx's smaller beaches — take a walk down a track and reward it.

Long lunches

The interior is where the eating is. Santa Gertrudis has a cluster of restaurants around the square that stay busy year-round with residents rather than visitors, and the agroturismo hotels in the middle of the island run kitchens well above the standard the coast manages.

Lunch runs late — 14:00 is normal, 15:00 is not unusual. Book for 13:30 if you want the terrace.

Where to stay for the quiet half

Sant Josep and the north are the right side of the island for this. Ibiza Town works too if you want Dalt Vila and the harbour restaurants on your doorstep and are happy to drive to the beaches.

See the Ibiza area guide, or compare member rates on Ibiza hotels. Weighing Ibiza against the other islands? Read Mallorca or Menorca.

Frequently asked questions

Is Ibiza family-friendly?

The north and east are, particularly Portinatx and Es Canar with their shallow bays. Avoid Playa d'en Bossa and San Antonio's west end.

Do I need a car in Ibiza?

For the quiet half, yes. The best coves have no bus route and taxis are scarce in August.

How do I get to Formentera?

A 30-minute ferry from Ibiza Town harbour, running roughly hourly in season.

When does the season end?

Most clubs close in early October, and many north-coast restaurants close from November to April.

More things to see

  • Sagrada FamíliaBarcelona, Catalonia
  • The AlhambraGranada, Andalusia
  • Teide National ParkTenerife, Canary Islands

Related reading

  • Mallorca or Menorca? Choosing your Balearic baseIslands
  • Canary Islands in winter: where the sun actually isWinter sun
  • Eating late, eating well: a tapas primerFood & drink
  • Andalusia by car: white villages in five daysRoad trips

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